Upper Lip Sun Damage

Skin Brighteners and Exfoliators to Repair Damaged Skin

I am mostly concerned about my upper lip sun damage. It looks like I have a mustache just because it is so dark.

I got this sun damage last year in the summer (2007).

Could you please refer me with a product that works, something with results.

I am sick and tired of trying products that don't work. Having this nuisance is affecting my self esteem.

I really hope you can help me out.

Thank you.

Gerlinde

I hope I can help too. I understand what you say about your self esteem suffering.

Have you seen a dermatologist yet? If not, please do.

The money you have already spent on OTC products that didn't help might have been better spent getting sound medical advice. A doctor can best evaluate your condition in the context of your normal skin tone and hormonal state.

Chemical peels, laser treatments and/or prescription strength skin lighteners are some of the medical options; but they're not right for all skin types.

There are three things to keep in mind when treating patches of hyperpigmentation.

First, that splotch of melanin you see in the mirror was created in the skin's deep layers some time ago. It will take a while to erase and prevent its return. You need to be consistent and patient.

The depth and darkness of spots within the epidermis are variable; so some discolorations are easier to lighten than others. You may see results in as little as three weeks; but it may take as long as six.

Second, you want to slow melanin production and clumping in the future.

Some skin lightening ingredients help to do this, but you need to do more.

The goal of skin bleaching ingredients is to turn off melanin production and eliminate unwanted pools of pigment already present in the skin.

UV exposure is the one melanin damaging factor you can control quite effectively. Use a broad spectrum sunscreen religiously when you are using skin lightening creams and - really - for the rest of your life.

Your sunscreen should have at least an SPF 15. Since SPF is a measure of UVB protection only, you need to be sure your sunscreen also has ingredients to block UVA rays.

Look for Helioplex, Mexoryl, zinc oxide or micronized zinc oxide, Parsol 1789 (avobenzone), cinnamates or salicylates.

Third, you can speed up the process of evening out your skin tone by exfoliating.

This brings new cells to the surface faster, aids in the absorption of treatment products and stimulates the production of collagen and elastin.

Do NOT use any lightening cream containing mercury compounds. These are banned in the U.S. but they sometimes sneak in.

Recently there were cases of mercury poisoning in New York that were traced to improperly labeled imported skin lightening creams.

Check the ingredients and, if there is no list of ingredients or if it is suspiciously short, ask yourself, "Do I know and trust this brand name?"

Ingredients to Speed the Fading Process

1. There are many OTC skin brighteners or clarifiers.

Some ingredients work to actually lighten the skin.

• Hydroquinone is the most effective skin lightener and has the longest track record. It is available OTC in 1 to 2% concentration. Adverse reactions are rare at these lower concentrations. Hydroquinone is not stable and needs to be kept away from light and air. If it turns brown you know it is no longer effective.
• Kojic Acid
• Licorice Extract
• Arbutin (which contains Hydroquinone)

Other ingredients work by exfoliation. By speeding cell turnover, exfoliants hasten the ascent of excess melanin to the surface where it will slough off.

• Glycolic acid (AHA)
• Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C AHA)

Some OTC Skin Lightening Products with Effective Ingredients

CosMedix Lightning with Azelaic Acid (which destroys melanocytes), Alpha-Arbutin (which contains a small amount of Hydroquinone - the most effective skin lightener with the longest track record) and Licorice Extract (which lightens skin).

Murad Age Spot and Pigment Lightening Gel with 2% Hydroquinone and exfoliating Glycolic Acid.

2. Your doctor may prescribe

For skin lightening - Hydroquinone is the most effective skin lightener and has the longest track record.

There are some cautions when used at prescription-strength concentrations of 3% and above.

Follow your doctor's instructions carefully. Hydroquinone is not stable and needs to be kept away from light and air. If it turns brown you know it is no longer effective.

For exfoliation - Retinoids (Retin-A, Tazorac or Differin).

Retinoid creams are stronger than BHAs and AHAs but not all people can tolerate the irritation.

Your doctor will work with you to find the best concentration and application routine for your skin.

This article is for information only. It does not purport to offer medical advice.