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Cosmetics Technology - Advances in AntiAging Skin Care

Cosmetics Are Becoming Better & Better Due to Technological Advances

According to the New York Times, cosmetics companies are getting more and more high tech in their search for effective

antiaging skin care products. Matching the leaps of technology in pharmaceuticals and biotechnology, cosmetics manufacturers are getting more and more sophisticated, not only in the antiaging ingredient itself, but also in its delivery system.

The researchers are looking for substances that have particle sizes optimized for delivery of the wrinkle relieving ingredients. For years, cosmetic companies have used plant extracts to aide in the absorption of the cosmetics into the skin. Now the companies are researching such delivery systems as mineral spheres and time release technology.

And the research has borne fruit. There are now products for sale that rely on new technologies to make sure the antiaging ingredients get to do the most good.

For example, Estee Lauder - Future Perfect Anti-Wrinkle Radiance Cream SPF 15 uses innovative cell vector technology. Little spheres of protein like material are used to enclose the active antiaging ingredients. These spheres penetrate the skin where they are slowly dissolved by enzymes.

Fine lines & wrinkles are reduced 3 times faster with this method. Since the product also contains a sunscreen, it defends the skin against damaging rays.

Another product to use innovative technology is Freeze 24/7 Anti-Wrinkle Cream. This product uses GABA, an amino acid with many useful properties, including that of a natural muscle relaxant. (See GABA – Nature’s Producer of HGH for more about GABA). GABA, itself, cannot penetrate the skin, but it stimulates gynostemma, a plant extract that can, to relax the muscles that cause wrinkles and creases.

“In our bodies, GABA naturally inhibits muscle tension, so it makes some sense that topically applying it could have a similar effect and reduce wrinkles,” says Sandy Tsao, MD, clinical instructor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School. She adds, however, that without more research, it’s hard to say just how effective it really is.

[Product Update: At the time this article was first written, Freeze 24/7 was unique in its use of topical Gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) combined with Gynostemma to relax facial muscles. Problem with Freeze 24/7 is that users seem to either love it or hate it. It has an unusual waxy consistency and needs to be applied differently than other face creams.

The manufacturer advises to take a small amount and rub it between your thumb and forefinger to thin; then pat into the skin. Wait two minutes and re-apply in the same manner. “If you follow these recommendations, you will see optimal results with less product and not experience any flaking associated with improperly applying or using too much cream.”

For those who want the benefits of topical GABA and Gynostemma but can’t quite get the hang of applying Freeze 24/7, there are now alternatives. DermaDoctor has introduced its own GABA/ Gynostemma anti-wrinkle cream called Immobile Lines.

This one has a creamy consistency and doesn't ball-up on your skin. You still need to take care not to use too much or it will flake. Like Freeze 24/7, Immobile Lines takes effect within 10 minutes and lasts 24 hours.]

Estee Lauder and Neutrogena have found a way to reduce the size of zinc and titanium oxide particles so that they are small enough to be invisible on the skin yet block out the sun's UVA rays. (SPF refers only to UVB protection.) With mictonized zinc or titanium dioxide, you can have the benefit of some of the strongest sun blockers around without having to look like a clown.

[Product Update: Now, in addition to physical UVA blockers, there are two FDA-approved chemical UVA screens. Read about Helioplex and Mexoryl here.]

It seems like the cosmetics companies are coming up with more and more winners. For those of us looking for “Botox in bottle”, it looks more promising than ever that we might be successful in our hunt.

For more on new high-tech cosmetic ingredients, see our Cosmeceutical Peptide Glossary which is frequently updated.

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