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Cosmeceutical Peptide Glossary

A Guide to Help You Understand the Role Peptides Play in AntiAging Skin Care Products

Cosmeceutical Peptides

Cosmeceutical Peptides are perhaps the hottest “new” topical antiaging ingredients around. They have attracted attention since Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Sederma's Matrixyl) was found in a U.S. Institute of Health-backed study to stimulate collagen production.

This glossary is intended to help you, the (non-scientist) consumer, understand the antiaging benefits of each class of cosmeceutical peptides, as well as to decipher which peptides are contained in a particular anti-aging skin cream.

Since the body naturally uses peptides for communication within the cells, it was theorized that topical peptides might be engineered to regulate skin functions that had deteriorated with age. Restoring youthful cellular communication is an enticing approach to reverse the cell withering that results from messages that are either not received or are improperly received.

The theory has been borne out, both by clinical trials with human subjects and by in vitro laboratory tests.

Glossary of Cosmeceutical Peptides

Acetyl Glutamyl Octapeptide-3

[2009 Update: Formerly Acetyl Glutamyl Heptapeptide-3]

Trade name: SNAP 8. According to Centerchem, the manufacturer, "SNAP-8 is an elongation of the famous hexapeptide Argireline. SNAP-8 reduces the depth of wrinkles on the face caused by the contraction of muscles of facial expression, especially in the forehead and around the eyes."

SNAP 8 is available in Peter Thomas Roth Unwrinkle and Peter Thomas Roth Unwrinkle Eye.

Note: Acetyl Glutamyl Heptapeptide-1 is the form used for SNAP-8 in solution form.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Trademarked as DERMICAN by Cognis.

Clinically shown to stimulate synthesis of proteoglycans (which decrease with age) beneath the epidermis to combat skin aging.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 is found in Celazome No.45 Peptide Complex and Isomers Stem Genesis.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Trademarked as SYNiorage by Cognis.

Clinically shown to stimulate synthesis of proteoglycans (which decrease with age) in the epidermis to combat skin aging. In vivo testing showed an significant improvement in skin quality after eight weeks of use

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 is found in Euoko Y-42 Fractional Neck Lift Concentrate.

Argireline

Argireline, also known as Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (former INCI nomenclature was Acetyl Hexapeptide-3) – blocks transmission of nerve signals which cause facial muscles to contract. Although non-toxic, the effect is similar to that of Botox but less pronounced.

Argireline is available in DDF Wrinkle Relax and GreatSkin BTX Double Action Gel.

Dipeptide-2

Dipeptide-2 is used primarily in eye creams. It improves lymphatic circulation and helps the skin clear away toxins. It is especially effective for drainage of under-eye bags, spider veins and rosacea.

Products which contain Dipeptide-2 are: Hylexin and Murad Resurgence Renewing Eye Cream.

Dipeptides - Other

Other Dipeptides are beginning to appear in skin anti-aging products, most notably in the Olay Pro-X line which contains both Dipeptide-4 (Eye Resoration Complex ) and Dipeptide-7 (all Pro-X products ).

Research is scant at this point, but the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (Volume 22, Issue 3) published a review which reported that "cosmetically interesting activities such as stimulation of collagen synthesis, chemotaxis, anti-stinging effects and others, can be observed and substantiated" for dipeptide sequences.

EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor)

Epidermal Growth Factor is a small polypeptide of 53 amino acids and is a cytokine or cell messenger protein that stimulates epithelial cell proliferation.

The discovery of EGF won Dr. Stanley Cohen a Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine in 1986.

It has many medical uses and more are being discovered almost daily. Taken internally, it is used to treat some devastating conditions of premature infants, as well as enlarged prostate in adult males.

In cream form it is helpful for wound and burn healing and has achieved amazing cures of severe ulcerating skin diseases such as life-threatening Steven-Johnson Syndrome (SJS).

There is no doubt that topical EGF stimulates new skin growth.

Products which contain EGF are: ReVivé Moisturizing Renewal Cream and Mychelle Deep Repair Cream.

GHK-Cu Copper Peptide

GHK-Cu Copper (Tri)Peptide, a.k.a. Active Copper – used as a wound-healing agent since the 1970s. Its effect is to remodel the skin by clearing away damaged cells, rebuilding the skin’s circulatory system, activating the skin’s primary antioxidant protein and stimulating the production of new collagen.

As irregular skin normalizes, wrinkles decrease and skin tone is clarified.

GHK-Cu copper peptides are available in Neutrogena Visibly Firm Night Cream; Osmotics Blue Copper 5; and two products from Neova, Neova Antioxidant Therapy Serum and Neova Therapy Creme De La Copper.

Heptapeptide-6

Heptapeptide-6 is a pro-sirtuin peptide which works topically by extending skin cells’ life span. See also Palmitoyl-Tetrapeptide-10.

Heptapeptide-6 promotes the activity of the enzyme sirtuin. Sirtuins are believed to halt the normal cellular cycle that ends with old cells committing suicide. Instead sirtuins help rejuvenate aging cells by strengthening their DNA repair processes and stimulating production of protective antioxidants.

According to Wikipedia, “Sirtuins may be able to control age-related disorders in various organisms and in humans. These disorders include the aging process, obesity, metabolic syndrome, type II diabetes mellitus and Parkinson's disease.”

In an article in the journal Nature, Harvard Medical School lead researcher Dr. David Sinclair reported, “It's looking like these sirtuins serve as guardians of the cell. These enzymes allow cells to survive damage and delay cell death."

"What we think is that if a cell is at a point of deciding whether to live or die, these sirtuins push toward the survival mode and let the cell try a little harder and longer to fix itself," said Sinclair.

Products that contain Heptapeptide-6 are: Avon Anew Ultimate Age Repair Cream and Avon Anew Ultimate Age Repair Elixir.

Neuropeptide

Neuropeptide - a peptide which acts as a neuromodulator (nerve regulator), neurotransmitter (helps sends nerve signals), neurohormone (or hormone).

Neuropeptides are used in cosmeceuticals to relieve inflammation which causes the skin to break down with age.

The skin thickens, wrinkles decrease and facial contours are lifted and firmed.

They are available in Dr. Nicholas Perricone’s Neuropeptide Facial Conformer; Neuropeptide Eye Area Contour; and Neuropeptide Facial Serum Prep .

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14

Also known as Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-6.

Stimulates skin repair along several pathways: collagen synthesis, fibroblast proliferation and inhibition of metalloproteinases (enzymes which break down collagen).

A twelve-week human test of 29 subjects demonstrated that Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is equivalent to 0.05% tretinoin (Retin-A) in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with none of the irritation and redness.

This peptide is available in Dr. Jeannette Graf, M.D. Ageless Beauty Treatment Creme/Gel Serum

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

[2008 Update: PP-4 was originally named Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 and later renamed to reflect a correction in the data on its molecular structure.]

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, also known as Pal KTTKS, Matrixyl or Palmitoyl Oligopeptide-4 - stimulates production of normal collagen thereby thickening the skin and plumping wrinkles from within.

The collagen production is similar to that produced by the injected dermal fillers Radiesse, Sculptra and Artefill over time, but with no foreign matter remaining permanently in the skin.

These findings are supported by a U.S. Institute of Health-backed study as mentioned in the introduction above.

This peptide is available in Hylexin; StriVectin-SD; DDF Wrinkle Relax; and GreatSkin Peptide Treatment Lotion.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

[2008 Update: The name Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 has been changed to Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) Directory.]

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, also known as Pal GQPR - controls the body’s inflammatory response (as your own hormones did in younger days).

The effect is to reverse sagging of skin caused by out-of-control inflammation (glycation damage) thereby restoring skin elasticity and lifting facial contours.

It is available in: Hylexin; Skin Medica TNS Ceramide Treatment Cream; and Peter Roth Antiaging Cellular Repair.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

A pro-sirtuin peptide which works topically by extending skin cells’ life span. See Heptapeptide-6 for further explanation.

Products that contain Tetrapeptide-10 are: Avon Anew Ultimate Age Repair Cream and Avon Anew Ultimate Age Repair Elixir.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (PTri-1) has the INCI name Pal GHK and Tradenames Trylagen and Aldenine. It has been validated with in vitro as well as in vivo studies using human subjects. The results are impressive. In vitro tests using reconstituted human skin, yielded increases in collagen I and collagen IV synthesis of 128 and 81% respectively after just 15 days. Collagen III (the most abundant type of collagen in young skin) tripled!

Tissue sectioning of the treated skin tissue examined under an electron microscope revealed that the collagen fibers were significantly more uniform and better organized, as they would be in young skin. This effect results in fuller more supple skin.

In addition, in vitro studies showed that PTri-1 even inhibits the body’s anticollagenase activity. Anticollagenase enzymes are one of the factors that cause collagen degradation as we age. Anticollagenase MMP-2 and MMP-3 were inhibited 74 and 57% respectively.

In vivo, twice daily application of Trylagen by 20 female volunteers aged 35 to 55 for 30 days resulted in a 29% decrease in wrinkle depth as measured by 3D optical equipment.

PTri-1 is available in Peter Thomas Roth Wrinkle Preventer.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (PTri-5, Tradename SYN-Coll, previously named Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3) is often referred to as synthetic collagen, because PTri-5 mimics the body's own mechanism to produce this youth-giving substance.

In vitro studies have shown PTri-5 to increase collagen synthesis by 119%. This makes it especially effective for parts of the face and body that have lost skin tissue, for example areas with stretch marks as well as areas with crepey skin such as often forms on the neck and upper arms. Its effect is to plump out the skin from within, similar to Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (PP-4).

It is available in Peter Thomas Roth Mega Rich, Peter Thomas Roth Mega Rich Intensive Anti-Aging Cellular Eye Creme and Kinerase Pro+Therapy Ultra Rich Night Repair.

Syn-ake Tripeptide

According to the manufacturer, Pentapharm, Syn-ake is a synthetic tripeptide which mimics the action of a “neuromuscular blocking compound of the venom of the Temple Viper.”

Pentapharm conducted a clinical trial with 45 subjects for 28 days with twice daily application. That’s a small study, but enough for statistical significance. One-third of the subjects used Syn-ake, one-third Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline) and one-third a placebo.

The results were measured using PRIMOS®, which is a technique of computerizing topographical maps of the skin so that the hills and valleys can be mathematically measured and compared.

Pentapharm presented its results using two measures: skin roughness and wrinkle depth. The first refers to the sum total of all wrinkle depths over a given area as a measure of skin smoothness. The second is a measure of individual wrinkle depths.

The average smoothing for each group of fifteen subjects was 21% for Syn-ake vs. 4% for Argireline. The average reduction in wrinkle depth was 20% for Syn-ake vs. 2% for Argireline.

Syn-ake is available in Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle.

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This article is for information only. It does not purport to offer medical advice.

 

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