Algenist
Alguronic Acid Appears to Work to Protect and Rejuvenate Skin
I've heard good things about Algenist, so I tried a seven day sample, which wasn't long enough to see any improvement (I think it takes about 4 weeks). Before I purchase it, will you give it a review?
Thank you,
Linda
I took a look at the story behind the Algenist line and a closer look at Algenist Regenerist Anti-Aging Moisturizer SPF20.
The Backstory
While pursuing microalgae-based renewable energy solutions, Solazyme, an alternative-energy biotechnology company in San Francisco, unexpectedly discovered some interesting properties of Alguronic Acid, the bioactive compound featured in Algenist products.
This was reported in the New York Times. Alguronic Acid is known to be a compound that protects microalgae cells.
According to Solazyme, it also appears to protect photo-aged skin from environmental assault, inhibit the enzymes that break down elastin, and increase cell regeneration and elastin synthesis.
Allison Slater, the vice president for retail marketing at Sephora was quoted to say, "Think about how algae can live anywhere, live in the coldest of places, or the harshest of places, and think about translating that to skin care". Sephora was so interested they are the first to retail the brand.
The patent-pending Alguronic Acid in Algenist is a "single, purified, highly bioactive compound," said Tony Day, the vice president for research and development at Solazyme, and therefore delivers "much higher activity to the skin" than products using only a microalgae extract.
According to Solazyme, a study of 30 women showed that after 10 days of using the Algenist serum, subjects- average wrinkle depth decreased by 25% as measured by silicone replicas of their faces.
According to the maker Solazyme, Alguronic Acid outperformed Hyaluronic Acid, Retinol and Vitamin C (among other anti-aging ingredients) in encouraging elastin synthesis and cell regeneration.
Test Results on Alguronic Acid
Solazyme had Alguronic Acid tested by independent labs. None of the results have been peer reviewed. However this is not uncommon in the skincare industry.
Alguronic Acid showed statistically significant results in several skin benefit and anti-aging parameters, both independently and compared to other well-known anti-aging ingredients.
Average results measured following an in-vitro test with Alguronic Acid:
- 55% increase in cellular regeneration;
- 32% increase in elastin synthesis;
- 26% decrease in melanin production.
Following a self-assessment of 100 women, within 10 days of daily use:
- 86% of subjects reported increased skin density (suppleness, elasticity);
- 78% reported that wrinkles were minimized;
- 81% reported their skin was noticeably tightened and lifted.
How Alguronic Acid Appears to Work to Protect and Rejuvenate Skin
Let's take Hyaluronic Acid as an example of how Alguronic Acid outperforms other effective anti-aging ingredients.
Hyaluronic Acid is a natural component of the skin's intercellular support matrix. As we age, production of Hyaluronic Acid slows causing the skin's connective tissue to weaken and thin. Topical Hyluronic Acid and other skin identical ingredients are used to moisturize the skin and help compensate for the deficit.
The skin's natural remodeling system includes hyaluronidase, which is an enzyme made by traumatized cartilage (to soften and regenerate itself when injured), by sperm cells (to dissolve the protective layer around an ovum), and by the spleen (to speed up hemolysis which releases oxygen-transporting hemoglobin).
Hyaluronidase is also found in leeches, snake and spider venom, and various pathogenic bacteria, enabling their toxins to enter and spread within mammalian tissue by eating away Hyaluronic Acid standing in the way.
Excess hyalronidase, whether produced by the body or introduced by external organisms, accelerates skin aging.
On a molecular level, Hyaluronic Acid is an unbranched polysaccharide compound consisting of two types of monosaccharides.
By comparison, Alguronic Acid is a much more complex polysaccharide which has evolved over millions of years to protect microalgae cells in extreme environmental conditions. It has an intricate branched and cross-linked repeat unit structure consisting of six different monosaccharide subunits.
Due to its more evolved structure, Alguronic Acid is not broken down by hyaluronidase and was found to actually inhibit production of these Hyaluronic Acid degrading enzymes by up to 67%.
Algenist Regenerist Anti-Aging Moisturizer SPF20 has a lot more to recommend it than Alguronic Acid (listed as Algae Exopolysaccharides).
In addition to its rated SPF of 20 to protect against UVB rays, it contains Avobenzone (listed as Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) to protect skin against the entire range of UVA rays. Though it's a bit of an oversimplification, UVA rays are sometimes known as the sun's Aging rays, while UVB are known as Burning rays.
Algenist also contains a good concentration of Tetrapeptide-21. Tetrapeptide-21 is a cell communicating peptide that prevents damage caused by UV radiation. Moreover, it promotes DNA repair, to provide a complete protection system against intrinsic and extrinsic aging.
In vitro tests showed it to be almost twice as effective as Matrixyl at stimulating collagen production.
In vivo, Tetrapeptide-21 reduced wrinkle depth 7Xs better than Matrixyl.
Algenist contains a fair amount of another algae extract, Alaria Esculenta Extract, which has anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activity to preserve skin elasticity and skin suppleness by reducing elastin and collagen degradation. It contains omega-3 and omega-6 oils to reinforce the skins hydro-lipidic barrier.
Finally, Algenist Regenerist Anti-Aging Moisturizer contains a very good moisturizing complex and an excellent antioxidant cocktail.
Ingredients: Water, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Silica, Butylene Glycol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Phosphate, Algae Exopolysaccharides, Malus Domestica Fruit (Apple) Cell Culture Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris (Bamboo) Leaf/Stem Extract, Tetrapeptide-21, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Biotin, Glucosamine HCL, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Ergothioneine, Oleanolic Acid, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Mannitol, D-Limonene, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol.
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